Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France

In her search, Nathan takes us into kitchens in Paris, Alsace, and the Loire Valley; she visits the bustling Belleville market in Little Tunis in Paris; she breaks bread around the observation of the Sabbath and the celebration of special holidays. All across France she finds that Jewish cooking is more alive than ever. Traditional dishes are honored, yet many have acquired a French finesse and reflect regional differences. The influx of Jewish immigrants from North Africa following Algerian independence has brought exciting new flavors and techniques that have infiltrated contemporary French cooking, and the Sephardic influence is more pronounced throughout France today.

Now, with Joan Nathan guiding us, carefully translating her discoveries to our own home kitchens, we can enjoy:

* appetizers such as the rich subtle delight of a Terrine de Poireauxfrom Alsace or a brik, that flaky little pastry from North Africa, folded over a filling of tuna and cilantro;

* soups such as cold sorrel or Moroccan Provencal Fish Soup with garlicky Rouille;

* salads include a Mediterranean Artichoke and Orange Salad with Saffron Mint and a Tunisian Winter Squash Salad with Coriander and Harissa;

* a variety of breads, quiches, and kugels—try a Brioche for Rosh Hashanah, a baconless quiche Lorraine, or a Sabbath kugel based on a centuries-old recipe;

* main courses of Choucroute de Poisson; a taginewith chicken and quince; Brisket with Ginger, Orange Peel, and Tomato; Southwestern Cassouletwith Duck and Lamb; Tongue with Capers and Cornichons; and Almondeguilles(Algerian meatballs);

* an inviting array of grains, pulses, couscous, rice, and unusual vegetable dishes, from an eggplant gratin to a melange of Chestnuts, Onions, and Prunes;

* for a grand finale, there are Parisian flans and tarts, a Frozen Souffle Rothschild, and a Hanukkah Apple Cake, as well as many other irresistible pastries and cookies.

These are but some of the treasures that Joan Nathan gives us in this unique collection of recipes and their stories. In weaving them together, she has created a book that is a testament to the Jewish people, who, despite waves of persecution, are an integral part of France today, contributing to the glory of its cuisine.